HAVE YOU NOTICED loose motion in your vehicle’s steering while driving? Possibly you find yourself turning the steering wheel to keep the vehicle tracking straight down the road. That’s what I found recently with both our 1986 Caprice and 1966 Malibu.

Before you start making repairs, however, you need to make a few routine inspections. Start by making certain that the tires are properly inflated and in good condition. Next take a good look at the wheels. Elevating each front wheel will allow you to check the wheel bearing adjustment to make certain they aren’t too loose.

Rotating a wheel will tell you a lot about both the tire and rim. I have covered this in previous articles, so I won’t dwell on it too much but here are some tips:

You will need to drive the vehicle to warm up the tires, and round out those flat spots caused from sitting.

Next use a stationary object like a cinder block positioned next to the tire’s tread and then the sidewall. This is a simple way to check for excessive tire/ wheel runout. Position the cinder block close to the tire and use it as a reference while you rotate the tire. Locate the spot where the tire bumps the cinder block and then slowly rotate it observing the air gap between it and the cinder block. As a general rule with today’s tires, 1/16" is considered the maximum allowable runout for both the tread and sidewall. Some older reference information indicates up to 1/8" allowable runout on passenger vehicles, and even greater numbers for larger trucks, so keep that in the back of your mind. Check your vehicle’s shop manual for wheel runout specifications and the proper wheel bearing adjustment method.

If the tire exceeds the allowable runout, the problem could be the tire, rim or both. To inspect the rim is a bit more of a challenge with the tire mounted on it. Again use the cinder block, and secure something to it like a small steel rod or wooden dowel to create a pointer, as shown in Photo 1. The pointer can be used in the same manner to judge both the rim’s lateral and radial runout. While in this photo it is being used to check the lateral movement of the rim, it can also be slid inward to reach the bead surface of the rim and the radial runout can be checked. Wheel weights will most likely get in the way, at least when checking the lateral movement. If there is only one weight, that’s not a problem. Start on one side and make a full revolution until you reach the other side of that weight. The small amount of space the weight occupies won't be an issue. If there are two weights spaced apart, that’s another story. In that case, it’s easiest to mark each location and identify which weigh goes where, and then remove them. They can be hammered back on when the runout test is completed.

A Possible Runout Solution If your tire or wheel (or both) have excessive runout, note the location of the “high and low spots” on both the tire and rim. In some situations you can break down the tire and have it repositioned so that its high spot is lined up with the low spot of the rim. This might bring you within specifications. Finally, use your hands to feel the tire’s tread for possible separations (bumps in the tread). If that’s discovered, the tire will need to be replaced.

If all checks out OK, it’s time to move on to checking the steering components.

The Cars’ Steering Was...

The Malibu’s steering had a tremendous amount of free play in it. OK, it was sloppy loose! You could move the steering wheel from left to right and quickly realize the free play when meeting the resistance of the manual steering gear box. With the Caprice there was no sense of actual looseness in the steering, just a feeling of wandering back and forth while traveling down the road. Certainly the power steering camouflaged the problem somewhat. These vehicles ended up having two different problems, but the inspection procedure is the same for both.

To find out where this looseness is coming from, start with the vehicle’s wheels back on the ground. A look underneath the vehicle in Photo 2 shows the pitman arm on the Caprice. That’s it with the large nut securing it to the sector shaft of the steering box and then to the steering linkage.

Have an assistant slowly work the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the pitman arm for how quickly it responds. This task is much easier on some vehicles than others. With the Malibu, I am able to grab the steering box flange and rotate it back and forth myself; eliminating the need for someone in the driver’s seat. There also is a clear view of the pitman arm from above looking down in Photo 3.

Is there fairly quick response to the steering wheel movement or is there considerable delay? If there is a lot of movement in the steering wheel before the pitman arm starts to move, then the steering box needs service and most likely adjusting it will take care of the issue. The Caprice looked fine, but the Malibu’s steering box definitely needs help. We will need to dig a bit deeper to find the cause of the Caprice’s problem, and as well there could also be additional looseness to be found in the steering linkage of both vehicles. Even though there is a difference of 20 years in the age of these two vehicles, the steering linkage is essentially identical. Continue moving the steering wheel in the same manner but this time attention will be focused on the connecting joint in the drag link, where it connects to the pitman arm. That’s it in Photo 4. The pitman arm enters the photo from the top left, and the joint in the center of the image is what you are watching. This joint is designed to pivot as the steering linkage is moved, but as it gets old and wears, it will develop a side-to-side wobble which will be noticed as looseness in the steering wheel. That wobble is very evident here with the Caprice. The other end of the drag link has a similar joint that connects to the idler arm. The idler arm is the pivot point mounted on the right frame rail, opposite the steering gear box as seen here in Photo 5. This joint is also designed to rotate but not have side-to-side wobble, and is inspected the same way.

The remainder of the drag link connects the inner tie rod ends of both the right and left wheels. Be aware that on some vehicles these pivoting joints might be part of the pitman arm and idler arm instead of the drag link. A close visual inspection will show exactly where the joints are located. Reference your vehicle’s service manual for what is considered allowable tolerance for the steering linkage. Personally, if I perceive any side-to-side movement in these drag link joints, they’re going to be replaced.

About the Idler Arm...

The idler arm and tie rod ends also can create unwanted steering wheel travel if they are worn. And as with most things, if ignored too long, there is a safety risk as well.

For this inspection raise both front tires off the ground several inches and support the vehicle under the factory-approved lifting and supporting locations. On both of these Chevrolets that would be underneath each lower control arm, or under the straight, parallel portion of the frame rails just behind each front wheel. This inspection is being limited to the steering linkage so either location is suitable for inspection. If the suspension components were to be inspected as well, jack stands would be positioned under the lower control arms, as close as possible to the lower ball joints. In doing so, it would remove the load from the lower ball joint, allowing for a proper inspection.

The idler arm is another piece of the puzzle to inspect. Grab the drag link close to the connecting joint and push up and pull down while looking for any deflection in the pivoting elbow joint of the idler arm. The elbow is located be low the lower radiator hose in Photo 5, by the grease fitting. If there is excessive movement, and it’s determined the idler arm needs to be replaced, make some clear reference marks on the frame rail alongside its mounting bracket before loosening it. In some cases certain design idler arms can be adjusted to eliminate looseness. Check your shop manual, and if there is any uncertainty, replace it with a new one.

Finally, inspect the tie rod ends. If there is any obvious looseness or movement seen in any of the tie rod ends when the steering wheel is moved back and forth, then they are dangerously worn-out. Grab each tie rod end and try to compress it using only the strength in your hand as shown in Photo 6. If it can be compressed easily, that generally is a sign they are due to be replaced. If necessary, replace them in pairs, either inners or outers.

Remember to accurately count the number of turns it takes before the tie rod end is free of its sleeve, and which way it’s facing when it comes loose of the threads. Making detailed notes now will save you time later. Write it down, don’t try and rely on your memory. This information will be used to obtain the initial position when installing the new tie rod end. While it won’t eliminate the need for checking and readjusting the toe-in, it will get you close.

There are also suspension components that could be inspected for wear, but this article is just dealing with steering looseness. While it’s not impossible that under the right conditions severely worn suspension parts might contribute to steering looseness, it is unlikely.

So we have inspected the steering box, drag link, idler arm, and tie rod ends on both vehicles, and determined that the Caprice needs a new drag link, while the Malibu will need the steering box adjusted. The other steering linkage components checked out fine.

Replacing the Caprice’s Drag Link This is a fairly simple item to replace, and if the vehicle’s toe-in adjustment was initially correct, it should remain unchanged. Just to be on the safe side though, it will be rechecked after the drag link has been replaced, and should other components require replacing, the toe-in adjustment will definitely need to be checked and likely adjusted. Before digging into things, it will be helpful to know if the steering wheel is properly centered as it should be when driving straight down the road. Test drive the vehicle on a couple of different roads, as the different degree of road crown can have an effect on the steering wheel’s position. If it is cocked slightly one way or the other, make a special reference “note.” Obviously, you don’t want to be handwriting notes while driving, and thinking you will remember the steering wheel’s orientation doesn’t always work. However, a simple method that works well is to use the vehicle’s sun visors for a reference. If the steering wheel appears to be making a slight turn to the right, flip that sun visor down as an indicator and do the opposite if the steering wheel appears to be turning left.

Naturally, the other visor must be up, or this “high-tech” system is a failure.

If you are working on a vehicle without sun visors, improvise. Carry a pad of sticky post-it notes and use them in place of the sun visors.

It’s also helpful to note to what degree the steering wheel is rotated; just slightly, or quite a bit. Try and make some form of reference, either using something in the vehicle’s interior that the steering wheel spokes line up with, or possibly to the numbers on a clock. This information will be useful when it comes time for checking the toe-in adjustment.

And always keep in mind that there is nothing worse than thinking to yourself, “I don’t need reference notes; there’s no way I will forget.” Guess what? You will.

Let’s Do the Swap

With that out of the way, it’s time to get started. Care must be taken to avoid damaging any of the rubber grease cups on the tie rod ends when removing the link. If a fork is used to separate them, the rubber cups most likely will be dam aged. Don’t misunderstand; forks are great when the item with the rubber component is to be replaced. If you are installing new tie rod ends, a fork is a good choice.

The front end of the Caprice is raised enough to allow plenty of room to work, and is secured on jack stands. First the cotter pins must be removed from each of the four connecting joints. If there is a heavy build-up of grease surrounding the nut and cotter pin, use a wire brush to clean it off, and then straighten out the cotter pin as best you can. Often they can become rusted and stubborn, so don’t hesitate to use a penetrating oil like WD-40. Side cutters can be used to bite onto the cotter pin and leveraged against the drag link, pulling the cotter pin out as is being done in Photo 8. For the most stubborn cotter pins, use a cotter pin removal tool and strike it with a hammer as is being done in Photo 9.

With all the cotter pins removed, a %" wrench is used to loosen the pitman arm stud’s nut, and an '%o" wrench will take care of the rest. But don’t thread them completely off just yet. Thread the nut out flush with the end of the stud and apply a dot of grease to the end of the tie rod end studs. Photo 10 shows the use of a puller purchased at the local swap meet to free the tie rod end. This tool worked fine on the first tie rod end, but started spreading open when attempting to separate the second one. Photo 11 shows an ancient Snap-on pitman arm puller from my tool box that looks quite similar and has always worked well for this task, so it will be called upon once again. The throat is much larger, but the opening measurement is almost identical to the other tool. If you approached a Snap-on rep with this tool, he or she would certainly laugh out loud. They have since produced a much stouter pitman arm puller, but this vintage piece is still useful.

With the two tie rod ends loose, all that remains is the connection to the idler arm and pitman arm. The separating fork will be used here as there is no concern about any rubber joint components. The new drag link includes new rubber washers along with cotter pins and nuts for both the pitman arm and idler arm connections as seen in Photos 12a & 12b.

Lining the fork up and striking it with a hammer is all that’s needed to separate the joint as is being done in Photos 13a & 13b. Keep the nut loosely attached with several threads so that when the joint breaks free, things are under control. If you have access to compressed air, you can use an air chisel with a separating fork attachment as seen in Photo 14. If you are working in tight confines, this is an excellent choice as the hammer can remain in the tool box.

Once the joints at either end are free, the old drag link can be removed. You will likely find yourself turning the steering wheel to free the drag link of the tie rod ends and other connecting joints.

A Drag Link By Any Other Name...Goes On the Same

When purchasing the replacement part, you might encounter a vocabulary game: I usually refer to this component as the drag link; some call it the center link and a reference in a Chevrolet manual referred to it as the relay rod. But as you know, it’s not unusual to find a part referred to by several different names. The new drag link is essentially replaced in reverse order. Make all loose connections first, remembering to rotate the drag link and tie rod end studs so that the cotter pin holes are all conveniently oriented. A heavy-duty pick or cotter pin tool positioned in the cotter pin hole works well for rotating the studs to desired locations. Finally, tighten all the nuts to 40 ft.-lbs of torque (of course, the castle nut and cotter pin hole must be aligned) and then replace the cotter pins. Lubricate the new drag link joints as well as the tie rod ends and idler arm.

If you are replacing any tie rod ends or the idler arm, it is essential that the toe-in adjustment be checked, and while replacing the drag link shouldn’t have changed anything, it doesn’t hurt to check it anyway. You have the option to do this yourself or take it to an alignment shop if you prefer. If you enjoy doing the repairs yourself and have patience, then I would encourage you to do so. On the other hand, if you think this task should be done in no more than 15 minutes, take it to a professional alignment shop. It’s not about how long it will take, but more about taking the time to do it correctly and ending up with the steering wheel being positioned properly.

Did the Steering Wheel Remain In Place? In the case of the Caprice, where only the drag link was replaced, you can feel fairly certain that the steering wheel’s position has remained unchanged. If tie rod ends were replaced, and the thread count was closely monitored when removing and replacing them, it should still be close. The same holds true if the idler arm was replaced, and before removal the frame was marked carefully so the new arm could be positioned in the same spot as the old one.

If you feel uncertain about it, make sure all the steering linkage is tight and secure, and then take it for a short drive to see if the steering wheel is straight, and if not, make a reference to its position as mentioned earlier.

Next: We'll consider our options if the steering wheel’s not centered.